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When it comes to shopping for jewelry, we all want to make sure we know what we’re getting our hands on, whether it’s a pair of high-quality gold earrings, vintage silver rings, or a quality watch. For anyone seeking out gold jewelry, in particular, though, accessory shopping can be especially difficult if you’re not familiar with the quality and grades of different types of gold layering. So, if you’ve ever stepped into a jewelry store and wondered, “What is gold vermeil?” you’re not alone.

“Gold vermeil offers the look and feel of solid gold at a more affordable price point, making it a popular choice for those who want high-quality jewelry without paying for solid gold,” says Neeta Patal, owner and founder of Estella Collection. But what exactly makes gold vermeil jewelry so different from gold-plated or gold-filled jewelry? With the help of a few experts, we dug into the quality and price of different types of gold to help you feel like a certified goldsmith. Ahead, see what jewelry experts and gemologists had to say about how to find the best gold vermeil jewelry, and learn more about what to look for next time you’re in a jewelry store.

What is gold vermeil?

Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-MAY) is a type of high-quality gold plating placed over sterling silver. To be considered vermeil, sometimes referred to as “silver gilt,” the gold layer must be at least 10 karats, which means the gold is at least 41.7 percent gold content, and it must be at least 2.5 microns (about 0.00025 centimeters) thick, according to Patal. “Unlike standard gold plating, which can be very thin and applied to various base metals, vermeil features a thicker layer of gold, ensuring it has a luxurious finish and increased durability,” says Anna Bario Neal, co-founder of Bario Neal, a jewelry company. “This process results in jewelry that not only looks beautiful but is also designed to make heirlooms of lasting value.”

Is gold vermeil good quality?

In general, gold vermeil is of good quality and offers a superior gold finish compared to standard gold plating due to its thickness and the use of sterling silver as a base metal. Jerry Taylor, gemologist and co-founder of Taylor Custom Rings, says that gold vermeil is higher quality than gold-plated or gold-filled jewelry, but falls short of solid 10k, 14k, or 18k gold. So, if you’re looking for a gold necklace or a set of gold rings that have a similar luster to solid gold but aren’t as pure — and, therefore, may tarnish more easily than solid gold if not taken care of — then gold vermeil may be the budget-friendly option for your jewelry box.

What’s the difference between gold vermeil and gold-plated jewelry?

There are a few differences between gold vermeil and gold-plated jewelry. First, it’s important to recognize the difference in how they are constructed. “Standard gold-plated jewelry often uses less expensive base metals and has a thinner gold layer, [whereas] vermeil has FTC standards that require a 2.5 micron-thick plating of at least 10k gold,” says Neal. Additionally, gold vermeil jewelry uses sterling silver as its base, whereas gold-plated jewelry can use a variety of base metals such as copper or brass, according to Neal.

How to shop for gold vermeil jewelry

• Verify that the piece is genuine vermeil: While shopping for jewelry, you’ll want to make sure that it’s genuine vermeil. “This means it should have a gold layer of at least 2.5 microns-thick over sterling silver,” says Neal. “Check the karat of the gold used, as higher karat gold (like 18k) means more pure gold content.”
• Shop at reputable sellers: Patal recommends finding a retailer that lists the thickness of the gold layer. Knowing the thickness of the gold layer will help you know whether it’s gold vermeil or not as you shop. Some of the best brands to shop include Kendra Scott, Monica Vinader, and Mejuri.

• Avoid excessively cheap options: If the price seems too good to be true, then it probably is (unless there’s a sale going on). “These options may have thinner gold plating or lower-quality materials,” says Patal of pieces listed for unexpectedly low prices. In some cases, you may not mind if the gold plating is thin or lower quality. If you’re looking for top-tier gold vermeil, however, then keep the price in mind as you shop, since it usually reflects the quality.
• Read customer reviews: There’s usually a big difference in how brands market and advertise their jewelry compared to what it’s actually like. Similar to the way you read Yelp reviews before going to a restaurant, you’ll want to look at reviews from shoppers who actually owned the jewelry, whether that’s on Amazon or on the brand’s website. This will help give you a better idea of what to expect when your jewelry arrives. Also, try to find reviews that include images so you can see firsthand what the pieces will look like compared to professional imagery used online.

Can you wear gold vermeil jewelry every day?

Yes, you can wear gold vermeil jewelry every day. If you’re looking for a singular piece that you can wear to the office or a dinner date, then gold vermeil is absolutely well-suited for those types of engagements. That said, Sacha Jarmon, gemologist and co-founder of Love Saro, says this is not a material that she would recommend for sensitive skin or routine exposure to sweat, water, chlorine, or salt water. In other words, it may not be the best choice for working out at the gym, going for a dip in the pool, or catching waves at the beach.

Can I shower with gold vermeil jewelry?

Experts don’t advise showering with gold vermeil jewelry. “Water, soap, and chemicals can wear down the gold layer over time and cause tarnishing,” says Patal. Of course, we can all be forgetful at times, so if you accidentally leave your jewelry on while you shower—whether that’s once or a few times—then you probably won’t notice much of a difference. Simply do your best to remember to take it off next time you step in the shower to avoid any tarnishing down the line —maybe even consider buying a jewelry dish to keep in your bathroom for easy access.

Can you be allergic to gold vermeil jewelry?

Yes, you can be allergic to gold vermeil jewelry. If your skin becomes irritated when you wear gold vermeil jewelry, you may have an allergy or sensitivity to one or more of the alloy metals in your jewelry. “Even the gold on the outside of the piece is an alloy, meaning it’s mixed with stronger metals like nickel, silver, and zinc, and it’s generally those metals that people have reactions to,” says Taylor. According to Patal, signs of an allergic reaction include redness, itching, or irritation around the jewelry. If you suspect an allergy, it’s best to consult with a dermatologist or allergist for testing. (While an allergic reaction is no fun, it’s also a great reminder of how often to change your earrings and other jewelry!)

Does gold vermeil jewelry tarnish?

Gold vermeil jewelry does tarnish when proper maintenance and care aren’t provided to the pieces, whether that’s a simple pair of earrings or a custom birthdate pendant. Experts advise removing vermeil jewelry during activities that may cause excessive wear, such as exercising or household chores, and particularly when showering, swimming, or engaging in other water-based activities. “Continued water exposure can accelerate the tarnishing of the sterling silver base in gold vermeil,” adds Bario. If cared for diligently, however, gold vermeil can last multiple years. However, it will not have the longevity of solid 10k, 14k, or 18k gold, which can last forever if properly maintained, according to Taylor.

How to clean gold vermeil jewelry

Learning how to clean gold-filled jewelry is easy and all you need is some warm water and dish soap. Mix the two in a bowl and let your piece soak for five to 20 minutes. If you have more caked-on residue, then use a soft-bristled toothbrush to gently scrub at the surface until it comes off. To keep the pieces clean, it’s recommended to store it in a jewelry pouch or travel case for jewelry when not in use and wipe it down often with a damp cloth. You don’t need to go overboard when it comes to cleaning this kind of gold, but if you think it could use a refresh, then, by all means, take the time to keep your accessories looking their best.

When shopping for gold vermeil, or jewelry in general, it’s important to make sure you purchase your jewelry through reputable retailers and look at the specifications to make sure you get what you’re looking for since information about quality and durability can easily be misconstrued by marketing jargon. Between gold vermeil, gold-plated, gold-filled, and solid gold jewelry, the options can be overwhelming, so make sure you’re equipped with all the information you need before you step into a jewelry store, and remember you can always set up an appointment with a professional jeweler to help you find the right pieces for your lifestyle and budget.